Still having my fresh memories
of my recent dinner in La Table de Joël Robuchon in Paris (16th)
I was very interested to see how his New York branch has
evolved. Especially, that the only time I dined in L'Atelier
de Joël Robuchon in NY (Four Seasons Hotel )was more than
perfection. To be honest, this time I expected something a
little less memorable as normally supervising restaurants all
over the world (like Joël Robuchon does) shouldn't help with the
quality. But I was once again amazed about the capabilities of
this chef. He is able to reinvent and propose something new year
after year (and I have been familiar with his cooking since he
opened his L'Atelier in Paris) and the food doesn't get less
creative or less delicious. The choices on the menu were almost
completely different than in La Table de Joël Robuchon in Paris,
which was a very nice surprise.
Except maybe for the amuse
bouche of "foie gras cappuccino" which seems to the signature
amuse bouche of Robuchon. Very good, but I know the taste by
heart!
It also seemed to me that the
New York L'Atelier has much more choices on the menu than La
Table in Paris. I can't speak for L'Atelier in Paris (in the
7th) as its been a while I haven't been there. Not because I
wouldn't want , but because they don't take reservations and
each time I pass around the dinner time they tell us there is a
waiting time of two or three hours! They do propose to wait in
the bar of the nearby hotel, but too many cocktails before
dinner is not always a good thing :)
Anyway, I was very pleased by
the choices on the menu of L'Atelier in NY. The dinner was
highly enjoyable. The food, the very professional and pleasant
service, beautiful and modern surroundings...
"Bluefin tuna marinated in a
tomato oil and sea salt". I think there was too much oil on the
carpaccio, but despite of that, it was excellent.
"Maine lobster in turnip
ravioli". Cold, different what I thought when ordering. The only
dish I was not so crazy about as all was very straightforward
and the lobster was quite flavorless.
"Crispy langoustine papillote
with basil pesto" Classics of Robuchon (it was also on the menu
of La Table in Paris ).When you bite into that warm, crunchy and
crispy langoustine papillote you are the happiest person in the
world...
"Pumpkin cream scented with
smoked bacon and croutons" Do you remember the Robuchon's
chestnut soup with pan fried foie gras,
croutons and bacon? Well, it is not on the menu anymore but
I loved that soup so much that now each time I eat in one of his
restaurants soup is obligatory for me.
What I found interesting is the
variation of this pumpkin soup in La Table in Paris. The
Parisian version is with Jerusalem artichokes and chorizo "iberico".
I preferred the NY version.
"Roasted Japanese hanger steak,
sautéed shallots and shishito peppers". Excellent and very
different from usual Robuchon's meat dishes.
"Turbot cooked "a la plancha",
ham, barigoule juice, artichokes and black truffles". Its been a
while I didn't eat such a perfect and delicious fish dish. It
was served with the classical Robuchon potatoes purée (yes, the
same which contains half butter - half potatoes :)) and all the
marriage of tastes was genius. Highly recommended.
The dessert was also very very
good. "Baba, thyme pineapple with rum sabayon and Okinawa black
sugar ice cream" The best baba I have ever had. It was infused
with pineapple flavor and rum and it was very soft and melting
in your mouth.
Bravo, Mr Joël Robuchon!
