Maurice Graham Henry on French restaurants in New York
In 2009 we congratulated Chef Daniel Boulud and his second-to-none staff on having the coveted four-star restaurant rating reaffirmed by the New York Times. Now we are pleased to offer our congratulations again, for Restaurant Daniel has now received its third Michelin star. Nevertheless, our firm belief is that the the very best restaurant in New York continues to be Per Se, Chef Thomas Keller's "American with French influences" masterpiece on the fourth floor of the Time Warner Center. Now led by Chef de Cuisine Eli Kaimeh, the restaurant keeps getting better and better. Perhaps the most exciting news in 2010 is that David Bouley is back in the kitchen on a regular basis at his New York flagship on Duane Street. taking the restaurant in exciting new directions. Indeed, two of the very best meal I had in the past two years were at Per Se and the new Bouley with my friend and fellow restaurant critic Fabrice Chouty.
 

Maurice Graham Henry
October 30, 2010

The Wandering Epicures enjoy a midsummer July dinner at Le Bernardin

"Le Bernardin has the top ratings in Michelin, Zagat and The New York Times, which it has held longer than any other restaurant. Kees and Els joined Linda and me for dinner there the evening of July 31, 2010. We all enjoyed our meal a lot. The ambience, service, pace etc were just right. Le Bernardin certainly deserves its ranking as one of the few top restaurants in New York. 'Prima,' as Els would say."

 

Daniel is visited by The Wandering Epicures in August 2009

"I do not think that either of us had a dish that was really memorable or that convinced us that we were at the very top level. None of them were failures either, although the abalone came close."

Le Bernardin in New York: the Luxeat Perspective
"I thought I should give a second chance to this 3 Michelin stars seafood restaurant, even if my first time there was very disappointing. I told to myself I would choose other dishes which would prove my initial judgments were wrong. Unfortunately, after my dinner in Le Bernardin last Friday, I stand for every word I said about this restaurant before. Le Bernardin would never get even 2 Michelin stars if it were located in France."

Per Se: the review by Francis Bown
"There is no question that Thomas Keller is one of the most talented Chefs in the world, nor that his restaurant in the Napa Valley, The French Laundry, is one of the world’s best. But star Chefs have been known to spread their talents too thinly. As I clambered out of the yellow cab on Columbus Circle, I feared that his new venture – Per Se, in far away New York – might not maintain the standards of the Californian original. Friends, I need not have worried. Per Se is, without doubt, one of the finest restaurants in the world."

Maurice Graham Henry reviews Jean Georges
"I am pleased to confirm that yes, the ultimate '12' rating of this restaurant (the combined total of 3 Michelin stars, 4 stars from The New York Times, and 5 stars from the Mobil Travel Guide) is indeed well deserved. A total rating shared only with Thomas Keller's per se across the street, it should only be attained by those who consistently produce excellent to extraordinary cooking in New York, French or otherwise. Jean Georges meets that standard."