
Before this trip to Tokyo, I agreed with those who
were skeptical about other than Japanese food in
Japan. Well, after my dinner at 3 Michelin stars
L'Osier, I don't share this opinion
anymore. Imagine what happens when the excellence of
French gastronomy collide with Japanese
perfectionism. It is a big bang of flavors and
pleasures of eating. I still think of the divine foie
gras raviolis with white truffles or suckling pig
with polenta. And I could have licked the plate of
scallops with polenta and white truffles...
I got a table at L'Osier accidentally. The plan
was to eat at one of the teppanyaki restaurants that
night, but the very last second we decided to try a
chance at L'Osier. I don't know if it was pure
chance or pure luck (you have to book very in
advance), but the restaurant had a last minute
cancellation. When the taxi stopped in front of the
spectacular Shiseido (at the this time of the year
all Ginza is sparkling with Christmas decorations)
building in Ginza, the directeur de salle
was waiting outside the restaurant. Soon I found out
that he used to be a directeur de salle at
one of the most famous restaurants in Cannes and we
knew the same restaurants in that region. Tetou, for
example. Lionel Lavernhe knows other 'best of "
things, like the best baguette or best cassoulet in
Tokyo.
And this is what impressed me most at L'Osier -
the passion for food. The chef Bruno Menard is a
master of marrying ingredients and creating dishes
that actually taste good, I mean very good. With his
neo-classic dishes, Bruno Menard doesn't try to
shock or to "reinvent a bicycle". Instead, he
revisits the French classics and turn them into
stunning and memorable creations of the 21st
century. Bruno Menard comes from family that is
highly linked to gastronomy- his both grandfathers
were chefs, while his father is a chocolatier. In
France he used to work at Jean Bardet restaurant in
Tours which is now closed. I ate there once and I
remember the chef growing his own vegetables and
herbs in the garden of his château .
Beautiful, "old France" location.

In the kitchen, Bruno Menard seems to remain
loyal to his roots while taking from Japan what it
has the best - products, precision and impeccable
service ( There are 45 people working for 40
guests)...
Salmon rillettes amuse bouche with
crispy toasts ( the picture above)..
or the fresh and refreshing tuna tartare..

The truffles season has just started and the
restaurant had plenty of dishes with white truffles.
You could smell their aroma as soon as a waiter
would pass carrying a dish...
" La truffe blanche en fins copeaux , sur une
" tarte d'oignon" et poitrine salee, creme glacee a
l'huile d'olive truffee"
I liked the fact that Menard associates simple
and every day tastes with luxurious products. As you
can imagine, it was a perfection.

" Raviolis de foie gras a la truffe blanche ,
sauce supreme et jus tranche"
Decadent flavor of foie gras mixed with intensive
white truffles shavings and creamy (yet light)
sauce.

"Cochon de lait de "Chiba" roti,polenta
cremeuse truffee,jus simple a la verveine"
Suckling pig,some fromage de tete and
boudin- again, casual food turned into high
gastronomy. The secret? The top notch products and
flawless, yet simple preparation. "Petite salade" on
the side- what can be better?

"Polenta de St Jacques et truffe
blanche,puree de cepes et soja hors d'age"
What I like about Bruno Menard's cooking that
despite of traditional ingredients, the preparations
were very light. Me too, I always thought that
polenta is heavy, but it tasted like very light
potato puree. The scallops come from Hokkaido. I am
sure that Japanese products are particularly
pleasant to work with... (and Italian truffles too
;))

The cheese tray with some of the best French
"national treasures" . L'epoisse, one of my
favorites.

The pre - dessert...

... dessert "raviole ouverte de mandarine au
parfum de gentiane,croustillant aux agrumes"
...

... and the "post dessert" ... As you can see
there was a particular emphasis on the desserts,
maybe it's due to the fact that Bruno Menard comes
from chocolatiers family?

So why eat French food in Tokyo? Because at least
in the L'Osier case, it is better than in France.
It's been very long time , that I was literally
blown away by a French restaurant. Few years ago it
was La Maison Troisgros by Michel Troisgros.Now -
it's L'Osier by Bruno Menard.
Bruno Menard (right) and Lionel Lavernhe outside
the L'Osier restaurant.
