I
stepped out of the cab, in Downtown Chicago, but felt as though I’d traveled
to France. An outstretched hand and the words, “Bon soir madame,” guided me
up brownstone stairs, with the fragrance of les plats Français hovering over
the threshold. I immediately succumbed to a magnetic gastronomic sojourn at
Les Nomades.
Mary
Beth Liccioni, current owner of the 29-year-old Chicago restaurant,
personally greeted us at the door. A tour of her restaurant revealed a mild
obsession with ornate vases supersaturated with stems of red roses. The
restaurant showcases two dining levels, the ground floor possessing more of
a saloon environment and the top floor emitting intricate décor, intimacy
and romance.
Liccioni seated me, granted me an enjoyable meal, and left me to settle in,
cueing her wait staff to provide the hospitable and perfectly sufficient
service I received.
The
experience began with a glass of the restaurant’s featured champagne. I took
advantage of the extra time to survey the epic “award-winning” wine list,
which prior personal research indicated my favorite wine, Pauillac Château
Grand-Puy-Ducasse 2003, was waiting for me. The decisions for the remainder
of my night at the restaurant were not so easy.
Les Nomades features either a four-course or five-course prix-fixe menu.
With dishes like Grilled Tasmanian Salmon with celery root mousseline,
beluga lentils, apple, watercress and horseradish emulsion and Roasted
Venison Loin served with kabocha squash, Brussels sprouts, juniper and
sherry brown butter sauce, I made sure to reap the tasty benefits of five
courses. I made the right decision.
Accompanying a succession of flawless menu items was impeccable service; the
instant I thought of using the restroom occurred simultaneously with my
server approaching my table.
Needless to say, my meal was exponentially satisfying from champagne to
dessert, a Classic Hazelnut Soufflé recommended by my ultra-accommodating
server.
The restaurant even offered various petit-fours, très delicieux aussi, while
you scan the check that expectedly came to approximately $235 per person.
Perhaps not the figure you’d like to see on any given Sunday, but Les
Nomades was my trip from Chicago to some of the finest French cuisine I have
experienced, including my three trips to France.
Les Nomades
222 E. Ontario Street
Chicago, Ill.
(312) 649-9010
www.lesnomades.net
© 2007 Karla L. Yeh. Used by
permission. All rights reserved. Visit
Vezeo.com, a new international travel blog focused on restaurants,
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