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Le Bernardin NY

The Luxeat perspective – January 23, 2008

I thought I should give a second chance to this 3 Michelin stars seafood restaurant, even if my first time there was very disappointing. I told to myself I would choose other dishes which would prove my initial judgments were wrong. Unfortunately, after my dinner in Le Bernardin last Friday, I stand for every word I said about this restaurant before. Le Bernardin would never get even 2 Michelin stars if it were located in France. But I guess being a French chef in New York makes miracles... The dinner was not bad, I would even say "decent", but when you know how high this restaurant is rated by all the guides you start wondering what is so special about Le Bernardin...

As last time we took the three course menu for $107 . My first dish was "Wild Alaskan and smoked salmon, apple, celery and baby watercress jalapeno emulsion". The acidity was interesting aspect of the dish but the strong "smokiness " of the salmon didn't do the justice to other products. In my humble opinion it  was too predictable...

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The second dish was "Kanpachi tartare topped with wasabi tobiko;ginger-coriander emulsion". The Japanese-inspired tartare was good, but something I had many times in Japanese restaurants. When you go to a 3 Michelin restaurant you expect to eat something that you don't eat every day...

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The final dish was "Wild striped bass, fiji shrimp; confit tomato agnolotti, bouilabaisse consommé and curry emulsion" . The dish that I liked most, well executed interpretation of classical  bouillabaisse.

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Like the first time I dined in Le Bernardin, the best part of the dinner was the dessert. A very talented pastry chef... I didn't take notes for the dessert but I think it was  "Dark chocolate, peanuts and caramel tart, meyer lemon purée, peanut powder, praline citrus sorbet." Excellent.

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Le Bernardin - incredibly ordinary experience

The Luxeat perspective – September 17, 2006

The highly anticipated dinner in the so called "the best restaurant in NY" Le Bernardin (3 Michelin macarons) was a big disappointment.  Honestly, for me its incomprehensible how Michelin inspectors can put Eric Ripert's cooking on the same level as the talent of such Chefs as Guy Savoy, Michel Troisgros or even Marc Veyrat...

The restaurant's ambiance is beautiful (A lot of tables, but its OK... its New York...) and the service is outstanding, but the food, the most important factor, was too plain for "the best restaurant in NY" and too pretentious for a good seafood restaurant like Le Duc in Paris where the seafood is "to die for".

The prix fixe menu is divided in "Almost Raw", "Barely Touched", "Lightly Cooked" categories which I found very interesting. I chose "Marinated Kumamoto Oysters in Shiso-Lemon Extra Virgin Olive Oil", "Warm Peekytoe-Maryland Lump "Crab Cake", Shaved Cauliflower , Dijon Mustard Emulsion" and "Organic Chilean Turbot , Shiso-Matsutake Salad, Lemon Miso Broth".

The oysters were fresh and simple, like in any other good seafood restaurant. On the other hand, the crab doesn't marry well with cauliflower. I don't know, maybe its a question of taste, but I've had a much better crab salad, like the one in Le Duc In Paris which is so fresh and simple.

The turbot though was really not good. I like the idea of the Japanese ingredients in the dish, but the fish itself was overcooked and, worse, tasted like gum.

The dessert( "Strawberry, Mango, and Basil Ice Cream Sandwich and Organic Strawberry Juice ") was the best part of the dinner. It reminded me a lot of the Pierre Hermé's "Miss Gla Gla" ice cream. The copycat of the Pierre Hermé dessert?

Let's be fair. The seafood in Le Bernardin is fresh and well prepared. But this restaurant is soooo overrated and definitely doesn't deserve to be the best restaurant in the city. And Eric Ripert (who was not even present I think ) would never get three stars (or even two) in his homeland. Never too late to improve and get more creative though!

© Luxeat. Used by Permission. All rights reserved. See Luxeat.com for reviews of excellent restaurants in Europe and the US.

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