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Review of Lameloise restaurant in Chagny (Burgundy)

by Andy Hayler

Food Rating: 9/10

Last visited: September 2003

Andy HaylerChagny is a village in Burgundy, about 90 miles due north of Lyon. There are a few rooms at the restaurant, which are pleasant if by no means cheap. The dining room itself is simple, with a secondary area off the main room. Nothing grand here - just a calm area to enjoy your dinner. Lobster salad was served in two layers millefeuille style, resting in a dazzling intense emulsion of tomatoes (9/10). Langoustines were cooked beautifully, each wrapped in a wafer-thin layer of crispy potato (8/10). Turbot was very fresh and timed superbly, served with stunning sautéed artichokes (8/10). I had fricassee of Bresse chicken, served with excellent girolles and a light sauce of the cooking juices (9/10).

Cheeses were in excellent condition (9/10). A dome of chocolate was stuffed with raspberry and vanilla parfait and was hard to fault (9/10). I went for n ancient dish – crepes Suzette cooked at the table, flambéed in Grand Marnier (8/10). Coffee was excellent (9/10). The wine list has many fine burgundies but also a decent selection from elsewhere, though it is not cheap. Service was impeccable. No real fireworks here, but no slips of any kind, and the highest quality of ingredients married to fine technique.

Lameloise deservedly regained its 3rd star in the Michelin 2007 France guide.

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