Given the despicable situation of the dollar vis a vis the Euro,
I became reluctant to take chances with erratic three stars in
France and elsewhere. So, in a recent trip in November we
visited the old favorites: L’Ambroisie and Ledoyen.
I am happy to report that both
restaurants are holding the highest standards, and both Pacaud
and Le Squer are perfectionists albeit in different ways. Le
Squer’s cuisine is still evolving and has not yet reached the
impeccable maturity displayed by the 60 year old Pacaud who is
still at the helm and looks very fit. While Le Squer is still
tinkering with tradition and introducing some new dishes and
amuses, Pacaud has attained a level of self confidence that
should secure his name alongside the greatest chefs of this
century.
Here are some short notes from
the recent visits.
The meal at Ledoyen began
with playful amuses—raw langoustine balls, beet
macaroons, spicy samozas, and mozzarella in a spoon (a
la Adria) -- that were more fun to look at than sheer
taste. But an onion puree topped by rosemary crème
glacée drove home the point that we were in serious
territory.Pacaud
does not want us to waste time with modish concoctions.
His time tested “gougeres” with comté cheese are simply
the best way to start a meal with Roederer champagne. He
then sent to our table quasi raw slices of the freshest
imaginable scallops from Brittany covered with a very
foamy beurre blanc and topped by thickly cut Alba
magnatum pico. When the foam melts, the cresson
(watercress) puree shines like an emerald. This dish
requires impeccable timing and should be served when it
is hot. It is a great example of “terre et mer”
combination.
Both restaurants found
a good supply of Alba truffles in a difficult year. Le
Squer of Ledoyen made great use of them in two
successive courses. His “gnocchi with Alba truffles” was
stunning for someone who had just come from Alba,
because nobody in Italy (or elsewhere) makes gnocchi
like a soufflé. They were so airy and light that one
wonders if they are real. At the bottom of the dish were
two thin layers: reggiano fondue and puree of Jerusalem
artichokes. And there were good shavings of truffles on
top. This dish shows why French cuisine still leads the
world today. It takes two separate classics of Italian
cuisine: fonduta with a root vegetable and gnocchi. It
then blends them and plays with the texture to bring out
the best in the truffle aroma. It was intelligent and
harmonious. The use of technique (soufflé gnocchi) is
not an end in itself, but a means to create a vehicle
for truffle.
The next dish was
equally successful. Le Squer is from Brittany, and he
knows the best of shellfish. His scallops were on par
with Pacaud in quality. He presented them in the shell.
Then they were de-shelled. The scallops were barely
steamed in the shell, and when they are that good—they
are divine. Served with cooking juices, some turnips,
and a generous shaving of white truffles, the dish was
sublime.
Pacaud at L’Ambroise is
also from Brittany, and his line caught large sea bass,
which was delivered with a special means to the
restaurant, was amazingly sweet and firm. Make sure you
order the “escalopines de bar de ligne a l’emincee
d’artichaut, caviar oscietre gold” when you see it on
the menu. The raw thinly cut crunchy artichokes marry
well with the seabass, and the cream sauce is both light
and intense. The generous use of caviar, which does not
get soggy and retains its texture in a warm dish, is a
Pacaud secret. This dish is clearly a 20/20.
Both chefs like
Brittany lobster. Le Squer at Ledoyen cooked it with a
sealed lid, with a few tomatoes, chanterelles and
chestnut. The dish is solid, very good.
But, I should say, the
lobster at L’Ambroisie was not just better, it was “hors
de classification,” because it is simply the best Breton
lobster dish there is. (Yes I know the Roellinger
versions.) The dish is called “fricassee de homard aux
chataignes et potimarron, sauce diable”. One detects
very fine ginger and espelette pepper taste in the sauce
made by pressing the carcass. This dish alerts all the
senses simultaneously. The balance it strikes between
firm/iodized/sweet/salty/nutty/spicy should be tasted to
be believed. It is a very complex, but not complicated
dish, which is made to look simple.
We finished the meal
with a rustic dish at Ledoyen. “Spaghetti au Jambon
Blanc, Truffe et Parmesan.” The dish was both delicious
and technically impeccable. Basically it is a Lard/black
truffle combination which works. The rectangle box made
from spaghetti contains quite a few nice surprises
inside. Order it and see for yourself. Had LeSquer been
born in Italy he would have been the only Italian chef
that deserves three stars—I mean in the heyday of
Michelin when stars were not given out as confettis.
When it is late fall,
Pacaud at L’Ambroisie prepares the best game pie on
earth: “Tourte de canard Colvert”. Since I have written
before on this dish I won’t repeat it. Suffice it to say
that the four elements of the dish, the wild duck
breast, the thigh, the filet of veal, and duck liver,
were all cooked to perfection. It was cooked to order,
and the crust was perfect
Desserts are a strong
suit in both places. Possibly “croquant de pamplemousse”
at Ledoyen is the best grapefruit based dessert in
Paris, and his “blanc manger” infused with yeast flavor
is reminiscent of someone’s childhood memories growing
up next to a bakery in the French countryside.
In return Pacaud offers
very refreshing desserts which go well after the rich
tart (such as “Strates de nougatine à la Poire sorbet
William.”) But his classic “Tarte fine sable au cacao amer,
glace à la vanilla” is still unsurpassed in this
world as far as chocolate desserts go.
Both restaurants do
possess some of the most professional hosts any
restaurant can aspire to have, and Monsieur Simiand at
Ledoyen and Madame Pacaud and Monsieur LeMoullac at
L’Ambroisie (and the captains, such as Pascal Vettaux at
L’Ambroisie whose advice should be asked for) are as
important to the institutionalization of these two
restaurants as the kitchen staff.
It is also advisable to
interact with Monsieur Tournier at Ledoyen and Monsieur
LeMoullac at L’Ambroisie to learn about some gems on the
wine list which are not obvious. I don’t want to mention
some of them by name because I want to drink these
bottles myself, and would hate to see them vanish from
the list!
Gastroville ranking:
L’Ambroisie 19.5 (Vedat Milor)
Ledoyen 19 (Vedat Milor)
© 2007 Gastroville.com. Used by
permission. All rights reserved. "Gastroville – A Refuge for Foodies"
www.Gastroville.com
To read previous Gastroville
reviews of L'Ambroisie click
here.
To read the previos review of
Ledoyen click
here.
