Jean-Georges
Vongerichten is one of the most celebrated Chefs in the world. His
‘Vong’ restaurants have proved popular with the diners of New York,
London, Hong Kong and Mexico City. But his true powerhouse is the dining
room on the ground floor of the Trump International Hotel, at the corner
of Central Park in New York. This is the place called by his Christian
names, and this is the place where you will find the gentleman from
Alsace in the kitchen. I know he was there, because he came out to say
‘hello’ when I was drinking my coffee at the end of lunch.
The restaurant proper at Jean
Georges is quite a small room, but it is flooded with light. The
sunshine pours through the floor-to-ceiling windows and is reflected
this way and that by the white mosaic floor. The good quality Spiegelau
glasses sparkle in the brightness. In this stylish space, designed by
the ubiquitous Adam Tihany, visual interest is provided by a bronze of a
‘deconstructed’ violin. Tablecloths are white, chairs are brown and the
waistcoats of the waiters are dark grey. Jazz burbles from hidden
loudspeakers. Not a lover of modernity myself, I yet felt very much at
ease in this modern, classy environment. Certainly, it sharpened my
appetite and my expectations.
A
civilized system prevails at mid-day. Two plates from the menu are $24,
and each additional plate is $12 – with the puddings priced at $8 each.
Mr Vongerichten has worked with the great Paul Bocuse in Lyon. But he
has also worked in the Far East. Yet of the 18 first and main courses on
the menu, only one (soy-glazed veal cheeks) was unappealing to your
Eastern-cuisine-averse correspondent. All the others sounded very
tempting indeed, and, had I not had an aeroplane to catch, I might
readily have ordered a 17 course, plus dessert, luncheon. Instead, I
contented myself with four courses and two puddings.
I say ‘contented’, and that is the
right word. For Chefs de cuisine Michael Lewis and Mark Lapico sent to
my table food which caused me a considerable measure of contentment, not
least because of its careful, painterly presentation on the fine white
crockery. First, green asparagus with morels and asparagus jus – the
slight bitterness of the asparagus well balanced by the richness of the
creamy mushrooms. Then the pretty white, gold and brown of sea scallops,
topped with caramelized cauliflower and caressed with a caper-raisin
emulsion. Next, the undoubted star of this particular show, a brilliant
plate of foie gras – the liver crisp without and gloriously pink and
yielding within – partnered to perfection by kumquat marmalade and pink
peppercorn. In conception, execution and presentation, this dish was
utterly superb. With a glass of sauternes adding its sweet complexity,
the flavours and textures of this course made my palate tingle with
ecstasy.
After such heights, perhaps
inevitably, the roasted spring lamb with cardamom crumbs and fava bean
purée tasted rather ordinary, although there was no doubting its
tenderness. Still, my enthusiasm revived with the puddings from Chef
pâtissier Johnny Iuzzini. Again there was the brilliant presentation. I
devoured the warm white chocolate cake with mandarin carpaccio and the
rhubarb tart with crème fraîche and mustard seed with enormous
enthusiasm and with enormous pleasure.
A restaurant of this quality should
have an impressive wine list. And it does. Indeed, sommelier Ryan
Buttner presides over a massive cellar of somewhat startling
magnificence. Where else can one find a bottle of 1870 Lafite (yes, that
is ‘18’) for $18,700? Each bottle, I should warn those of you about to
rush off, is sold ‘as is’. Otherwise, the following gems caught my eye:
1945 Latour ($5,775), 1996 Robert Weil riesling eiswein, Kiedrich
Grafenberg ($425, half), 2001 Screaming Eagle ($1,980) and a magnum of
1986 Pétrus ($4,155). My own two bottles – both straightforward and both
pleasing – were from Burgundy, the white from the Côte de Beaune and the
red from the Côte de Nuits (Saint-Aubin 1er Cru, Les Murgers des Dents
de Chien, 2002 - $80 and Cambolle-Musigny, Ghislaine Barthod, 2001 -
$100).
I rushed off to JFK, full of the
joys of great food and good wine. I wished I could have stayed longer.
Perhaps next time. For, be assured, Jean Georges is the sort of
restaurant to which I long to return.
JEAN GEORGES
Trump International Hotel, 1 Central Park West (between 60th
and 61st Streets), New York, NY 10023, U.S.A.
Telephone +1 212 299 3900
Fax +1 212 299 3914
www.jean-georges.com
Closed: Saturday lunch, Sunday
© 2005 Francis Bown. Used by
permission. All rights reserved. For reviews of hotels and
restaurants across the world, visit
www.BownsBest.com
