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From Las Vegas
Guy Savoy's
Cathedral
A Place for Serious Devotees to Celebrate the New and
Old Cult of Gastronomy
By André Gayot
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High ceilings fit for a cathedral
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When you open the monumental and
somewhat intimidating dark wooden door into Guy Savoy’s new super chic
Las Vegas Strip restaurant, you should also open your eyes and your mind. Veer
left into the Champagne bar on the second floor of the Augustus Tower of the
Caesar's Palace. The
Champagne officiator, the seasoned Bernard, who
probably knows your first name and your pedigree, will walk you to the
main hall. Raise your eyes and you will get the subtle message. The high
ceiling tells it all: the proportions are that of a cathedral,
emphasized by the presence of an oversized ogival window, which is only
missing stained glass to finalize the impression that this is a place
where services are held to honour a cult. Architect Jean-Michel Wilmotte,
who designed the original Guy Savoy as well as parts of the new Louvre in
Paris, has designed a deliberately simple yet elegant high temple of gastronomy,
seating 75. A few paintings dot the grey walls alternating with dark
wood panels, so nothing is meant to distract the attention that serious
diners should only devote to their plates. Décor, of course, is not
edible.
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"Colors of
Caviar" à la Savoy |
You have to know a little
bit about Guy Savoy to situate and appreciate his cuisine.
First, Savoy is the youngest and probably the
last of the legends who invented "Nouvelle
Cuisine". Younger than the Bocuses, the Guérards, and the
Senderens, but completely sharing their enthusiasm and their new
approach to cooking, taking advantage of their experience and their
mistakes, he is most likely the only one who is able to interpret and
amend the ten commandments of the “Nouvelle.” Second, Savoy is a kung fu
master, adept in Zen philosophy. For him, whether in life or in cuisine,
frills and flounces are unnecessary. Hence the Zen-like décor and the
rare bill of fare.
Let’s
peruse the menu to detect what’s really Savoy’s world of savors. Take
the “colors of caviar,” for instance. Obsessed with the color green,
Savoy dismisses traditional blinis as the accompaniment of caviar and
invents a bed of green beans for the black pearls of the Caspian
sturgeon. With a white vinaigrette and sabayon, not only does the caviar
shine under new colors, but it acquires a sublime taste. The experience
is an unforgettable adventure, albeit costly.
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Red cabbage "nage"
for the foie gras |
Where in
the world could this idea of setting these royal eggs on a modest garden
vegetable possibly stem from? Although Savoy is not a
devotee of molecular cuisine and won’t admit it, he does flirt with the
concept a tad. His idea consists of sublimating the essence of the
product by determining what is the catalyst or the detonator that will
trigger a chain reaction, rather than just marrying it with the more or
less usual compatible and accepted companions. The problem is, research
for the miraculous formula can end up in a sheer contradiction. Savoy
knows that the research of originality is not a goal in itself and
proceeds cautiously and prudently in the uncharted territories of the
alchemies of savors.
Another
example of his well-contained research lies in his treatment of another
royal product, foie gras. What apparently could be more antinomian than
a roasted foie gras and a soup? Even if you call it a “nage,” a red
cabbage soup is just a basic peasant dish. However, the pairing works
just fine, as a spoonful of “nage” to wash down the foie gras makes you
discover an extraordinary new facet of the already delightful liver.
Savoy also shows his unique savoir-faire and earns his top
Chef ranking with his signature dish: the “côte” de gros turbot, in
which the fish is steamed with spinach and a poached egg on a slotted
platter atop a soup bowl filled with fish bouillon. Flavors percolate,
infuse and interact, creating an exceptional bouquet of combined aromas.
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Oyster in ice gelée |
He has
not forgotten his young days at the illustrious Troisgros, either, where
apprenticing in the classical techniques of the French culinary
traditions, he learnt—he says—everything from the famous
brothers/Chefs/restaurateurs. He is proud and grateful to be considered
one of their most faithful and truest heirs. This heritage looms large
with the more classic dishes like the roasted veal chop with a truffle
potato purée with veal jus, the roasted duckling with citrus scented
turnips, or the crispy veal sweetbreads. Lucky for us, in many of his
dishes, Savoy is quite generous in his use of black truffles. His
oysters in ice gelée show how he combines the traditional with the
contemporary.
A cheese
cart presents twenty or more varieties of the best French cheeses, while
a dessert cart also makes its rounds. Many of Savoy’s best are based on
fresh fruits, with the exception of the delicate chocolate ganache
infused with Tonka beans. The impressive 1,500-bottle wine list is
mainly French, naturellement,
and ranges from old and rare vintages to affordable choices. The service
is as perfect as it gets.
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Guy Savoy cooks the traditional way: Guinea hen in a pig
bladder |
In order
to meet his high standards, Savoy sent his son Franck, who managed his
Parisian restaurants, (Le Chiberta, La Butte Chaillot, L'Atelier Maître Albert and
Les Bouquinistes), to Las Vegas one year prior to the opening to
find the best workers and products available locally. He proclaims he is
happy with the "local" ingredients, except for the truffles which he
imports. Along with his charming wife Laura, Franck, as general manager,
will run the show in Las Vegas, while Guy promises to do frequent
stints. Two of his executive Chefs from Paris, Damien Dulas and Laurent
Solivérès, will alternate behind the stoves in Las Vegas.
Savoy’s successful arrival puts him at the top echelon of the Las Vegas
restaurant scene. Not only because he is a world celebrity, but also
because he is the simplest and most open-minded man you can meet in this
industry. He is a real person, not just a name. After worshipping his
food at his cathedral in the desert, you may be tempted to address him
as His Eminence, but he is the kind of human being you would like to
call your friend.
The seven-course Prestige Menu is $290.
Restaurant Guy Savoy
Caesars Palace
3570 Las Vegas Blvd. South
Las Vegas, NV 89109
702-731-7286
www.guysavoy.com
© 2006 GAYOT. Used
by Permission. All Rights Reserved. See
Gayot.com for frank and witty reviews of restaurants, hotels, nightlife,
and shopping around the world.
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