Boxers
make surprising gourmets. But I am not the man to argue with a
pugilist - especially with one who has been Champion of the
World. Asked for his favourite restaurant, Chris Eubank chose
one of my own top ten: the glittering Louis XV in Monte Carlo.
Perhaps it was because this haven of luxury and gastronomic
excellence is about as startling a contrast as our planet
provides to the noise and violence of the boxing ring.
I expect Mr Eubank stays at the Hôtel de
Paris, on the place Casino, for his chosen eatery occupies one
of its ground floor rooms. This high chamber of cream and gold
fulfils every traveler's dream of what dining in the Grand
Manner should be like. Outside Bentleys jostle with Ferraris
and Porsches as the Seriously Rich gather at their
home-from-home. Inside expert waiters in black tie arrange
gilt cutlery and lift silver domes.
A well-run hotel thrives on detail. Someone at
the Hôtel de Paris must have discovered (from my passport?)
that it was my birthday. Up to room 504 (£400 bed and
breakfast for two) sped a bottle of bubbly and a chocolate
cake from the manager. I happily consumed both as I looked
down across manicured gardens to the Mediterranean. My many
returns will, indeed, be happy if they are spent here.
Half of Chef Alain Ducasse's six Michelin
stars twinkle over the Louis XV – and deservedly so. The set
dinner costs £100 and is worth every last centime. "No
compromise" is the motto here; and it is followed in the
kitchen with disciplined determination. Flavours are precisely
presented and combined to gloriously harmonious effect. I
purred my way through a plate of crustaceans with lemon,
Provencal vegetables simmered with black truffles (a dish
which thoroughly merits its great fame), fried sea bass with
peppers and tomatoes (superb), pigeon with foie gras and
potatoes, well-kept cheeses, feuilleté of wild strawberries
and a chocolate fondant flavoured with Earl Grey tea.
Service is deliciously elaborate. As a little
silver bird peeps from behind the vase of flowers, onto your
table is set butter with salt and butter without salt. Then
you are asked to choose mineral water from the 19 (yes, 19)
varieties on offer. Wine? Of course. But take care. The carte
des vins has been known to make strong men weep. Still, take
comfort from the fact that you can save £3,000 by drinking the
1945 Latour (£3,800) instead of the 1961 Pétrus (£6,800). Or,
like me, you can quaff a spectacularly good red Rhone with a
glorious nose of old socks for a mere £70 (Cornas, Les
Ruchets, J.L. Colombo, 1992). Be sure also to try the best
white burgundy I have drunk for a long time - Puligny
Montrachet, 'Champ Canet', Carillon, 1990 - at £100. Tell the
sommelier how much you want to spend and then take his advice.
While you are in Monte, for a startling
contrast to the Louis XV seek out Monsieur Ducasse's latest
venture. Bar et Boeuf is aptly named. It specializes in sea
bass and beef, prepared in a variety of ways from around the
world. Odd to be tucking into Beef Wellington on the Côte
d'Azur, but it was jolly good (£28). Drinking is a duet, too:
chardonnay or syrah (or perhaps I should say shiraz, as
two-thirds of the wines are non-French). The setting is a
terrace in a vast gaming palace, very modern and very chic,
with a lovely view over the bay of Monaco.
Upon reflection, I should not have been surprised that Chris
Eubank shares my admiration for the Six Star Chef. Because in
the fight for gastronomy's world title, Alain Ducasse is very
definitely a Serious Contender.
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Louis XV
Hôtel de Paris,
place Casino,
Monte Carlo, 98000 Monaco.
Tel. +377 92 16 30 01
Fax +377 92 16 69 21
Closed: Tuesday, Wednesday
Rooms at the Hôtel de Paris from £250
Bar et Boeuf
Sporting d'Eté Monte Carlo,
av. Princess Grace,
Monte Carlo,
98000 Monaco.
Tel. +377 92 16 60 60
Fax +377 92 16 60 61
Dinner only. Open June - October |
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© 2002 Francis Bown. Used by
permission. All rights reserved. For reviews of hotels and restaurants across the world, visit
www.BownsBest.com
