Last month, that is in October, I had my first meals in these two highly touted restaurants. Our meals came on superb days as sunshine and blue skies put one in a great mood for exquisite dining, and the location of these two places, one in central Auvergne in France, and the other in a rural area near the French border, in the Spanish Basque countryside, could not have been more rustic and attractive. The meals, for the most part, lived up to expectations, although, overall, I fared better than I had expected (from my readings and personal conversations) at Mugaritz, and I fared less well than I had anticipated at Bras. Admittedly, Bras is the more famous and settled of the two, and the reason I compare the two is that, Aduriz, the Chef of Mugaritz, clearly draws some inspiration and overall philosophy from Bras, even though he had apprenticed at El Bulli. Michel Bras, on the other hand, is now semi-retired and although he was present during our visit on October the 9th, I suspect it is now his son, Sébastien, who is at the helm. Both Chefs try to deliver multiple textures and clean flavors, and they make complicated dishes look simple and natural. They are also known for the use of herbs and for vegetable dishes -- cooked to perfection. Overall, I have no qualms about these generalizations, but my own conclusions slightly differ from the current wisdom. That is, I found that the cooking at Bras was at times fussy and dishes were too complicated and lacking in a clear focus. It seemed like Aduriz had invested more thought to his dishes, and his minimalistic cooking is also, for the most part, luxurious and decadent. I also liked the fact that Aduriz is seeking out rare and luxurious ingredients, and if he can charge 25% more for his menus and if he uses even more luxurious ingredients, more Michelin stars will follow. The meal at Mugaritz progressed intelligently, like a crescendo, and our taste buds remained alert and curious throughout the meal. This is no small accomplishment. (Aduriz had concocted a tasting menu combining dishes from traditional and modern preparations, following my conversation with a great lady, Susana, who handles foreign communications. Unfortunately, Susana had a car accident and was recovering at home during our visit. I wish her a speedy and full recovery.)
To make the comparison easier, let’s look at the following two dishes we had in both restaurants: a foie gras preparation and a rouget preparation.
Both Chefs cook the escalope of foie gras slowly (Aduriz on a charcoal grill, I believe) as the aim is to reduce the fat without losing the rich moisture. Both Chefs served us good quality livers. But the version at Bras was a little mushy and devoid of moisture. It was served with somehow complimentary ingredients like beets, sour apples, Muscat raisins, vinegar syrup and tarragon, but, somehow, the whole was incongruous and garnies were repetitive.
Aduriz’ version, on the other hand, was stellar, and I will go out on a limb to call it the best hot foie gras preparation I have had. The foie gras was thick and firm, and one could cut it paper thin, literally. It came accompanied with a rich emulsion made from skimmed yeast which was phenomenally luxurious tasting, provided textural complimentarity, and added a new dimension to the dish. The slight contrast provided by sesame seeds and a thyme cream reduction was also welcome. The judicious use of sesame seeds added another layer of complexity without detracting from the overall focus.
Take the rouget (salmonetes in Spanish) for further contrast. Bras prepared a very complex dish again by making good use of fall bounties, such as mousseron mushrooms, chestnuts, ,and pumpkins. He also added a good pinch of saffron, swiss chard, walnut oil, meat stock, and a good dose of cumin. While all of the ingredients (except the main one, that is, rouget) were impeccable, they vied for attention with each other, and somehow did not integrate to a greater whole. I was especially puzzled by the interaction between good saffron and cumin, as the latter became dominant, and the soft flesh of the fish did not respond well to this rather spicy Middle Eastern ingredient. The fish itself tasted like three to four days old, as the flesh had become too soft. But clearly it had never been frozen, so it retained some moisture. The mousserons and the chestnuts interacted nicely and were in perfect harmony. Yet, I had had more creative combinations of “terre et mer” as they are popular nowadays. The problem with the version at Bras is that the extra layers simply added another layer to the dish without adding further textures and dimensions.
The rock rouget served at Mugaritz is, admittedly, not for everyone. The rouget itself is excellent, and it is rare to find such good quality rouget from deep in the sea. This is a fish that likes to live near sandy beaches and eat a good dose of unmentionable stuff, so freshness is not always a guarantee for high quality. Personally, I like a good rock rouget simply grilled or pan fried and without heavy saucing. The version at Mugaritz, on the other hand, contained a very gelatinous stock made from the bones and the highest quality saffron, which is appellation controlee from Castilla la Mancha, one of the very best in the world. My take on this dish was that this is an interesting twist on the wonderful pil pil sauce from the region, enriched by saffron. The addictive bitter taste of the saffron was tamed by a contrasting gelatinous sauce, and the firm flesh of the fish and its natural sweet and nutty flavors interacted very well with one another. I cannot say that this was my best rouget to date, but certainly a memorable one. From the quality of ingredients standpoint, it was remarkable.
Now, I will proceed to a third comparison, which, I am afraid, will be most controversial. That is, I liked the “VEGETABLES, OVEN ROASTED AND RAW, SPROUTS AND GREENS” at Mugaritz more than the rightly celebrated “GARGOUILLOU” of Bras. I identified 16 vegetables in Gargouillou, and clearly they were all cooked separately in their own pot prior to assembly. The plating was a work of art. But I believe it is the gorgeous plating that makes an indelible impression on most people. The dish was devoid of a binding element to bring the disparate parts together. Of course there was a tiny slice of outstanding quality ham thrown in, which certainly imparted an extra dimension. On the other hand, the four vegetable purees painted onto the plate (I detected bean, red pepper, pesto, aioli) were extremely tamed and restrained, and their inclusion caressed the eye rather than the palate. Each ingredient was of high quality and tasty, but I failed to understand the inner logic of why they were selected. It is, as if all of the seasonal vegetables were included, and the dish hits you with sheer quantity rather than symbiotic interaction.
Honestly, the best all vegetable dish of the trip was at Etxebarri (see “A trip to the Basque country”), a restaurant that I probably underrated by giving a sheer 18. The Chef, Victor’s, grilled vegetables were of such quality that one can understand why “terroir” is so important for vegetables. All five ingredients in the dish, the thickly cut porcini mushrooms (ceps), local purple potatoes, incredible cherry tomatoes, freshly plucked baby eggplant, and sweet onion, interacted beautifully, and the Chef achieved a more textured and richer dish than Bras by including fewer elements.
The version at Mugaritz was different than either of these, of course, as the Chef includes both vegetables and herbs/salads. One welcome difference from Bras is that Aduriz came up with a binding element by intelligent use of an infusion made from “Emmental” cheese. He also seasoned the dish with a very judicious use of browned butter. We also detected a touch cumin and cardamom which responded better to vegetables than to fish. There were fewer elements in Mugaritz’ version than at Bras, but the inclusion of high quality lettuce and some herbs added texture and complexity to the dish. Each bite revealed a new flavor combination, and the palate experienced different tonations of alternating sweet, citrus and earthy notes with each bite. The symphony of flavors came to an abrupt and rather dramatic finish with the final bite, a whole a flower from Brazil called BERRO DE PARA. The final element in the dish served as a metaphor for the philosophy which underlined this dish, as this extraordinary flower first leaves a mild aftertaste which then turns, alternately, bitter, citrusy, and very spicy (like cardamom, cinnamon and even ginger). I should add that if you get to taste this “vegetarian” dish, make sure you pair it with an Albarinho or an appropriately grassy Sauvignon. Unfortunately the picture below does not reveal the various dimensions of the dish of which I am fond.
I liked the last two dishes at Bras more than the three I just depicted. The gargouillou was our first course, the rouget our second, and the foie gras our fourth. Our third was a tart of celeriac and ceps in a truffle cream sauce. This was a superb dish which gave me a clue as to why so many people I respect think very highly of Bras. The piece de boeuf Aubrac rotie a la Braise with sweet Cevennes onions and pumpkin was also very good, and the Aligot served with it was so sinfully good that I requested a second serving.
We had a total of eight courses at Mugarritz. The vegetables/greens dish was the first course, the foie gras the 6th, and the rouget the 7th. The second and the third courses at Mugaritz were the least successful. That is, the second course featured Borage Stalks in a Shellfish Bouillon with pickled garlic petals and borage flowers. The bouillon was overly light and tame, and the use of garlic was very restrained. In general, Aduriz delivers a subtle cuisine, but subtlety does not come at the expense of intense flavors. Somehow this dish bordered on the bland side of subtle.
The squid tentacles, on the other hand, came grilled and accompanied by a sauce made from thickened squid ink. They were accompanied by two chestnuts cooked in a very hot white clay oven. It is possible that I am becoming overly critical with a la brasa/grilled dishes after eating at Etxebarri who is a head above all three star Chefs in applying this technique. When Victor of Etxebarri grills a delicate shellfish, such as oysters, the shellfish retains its juice and moisture. The high quality squid at Mugaritz, on the other hand, was a little tough and a tad dry. On the other hand, I applaud the technique Mugaritz applied to chestnuts; he grilled them with their shells. The taste of each bite of this glorious earthy gem was sublime. I like chestnuts very much. But, here too, as at Bras, I failed to grasp the meaning of this particular “terre et mer” combination. In a one star French restaurant in Dordogne, during the same trip (PONT DE L’OUYSSE), I had a risotto of ceps and chestnuts (chataignes) and the marriage was superb. The dish merited a perfect score. With this squid dish at Mugaritz, on the other hand, the sum was less than the parts.
But neither of these two less successful dishes was bad. The last two dishes at Mugaritz, on the other hand, our fourth and the final (8th ) courses came very close to perfection. That is, the fourth course was a “COD CHEEK AND TRIPE STEW” which came with sopako (bread crouton) in a tomato and spicy parsley soup. The tripe in question here is not from veal but from cod fish. The dish was outstanding in terms of both complimentarity of multiple textures, as well as taste. The binding sauce contained a little ham, and the long cooked sopako retained so much flavor that after many bites I cared no longer as to which component I was putting into my mouth as all components tasted rich and soul satisfying and complemented one another. The sauce itself was flavorful, enhanced the flavor, and did not detract from it. Aduriz is on his way to creating a dish which may become a classic and part of the Traditional repertoire in the Basque country.
I was equally pleased with the “LAMB TROTTER” braised in a salted toffee of lactose and fresh cream and a ragu of beets. The dish was so sinfully tasty and gelatinous that it encapsulated the essence of the Japanese word “Umami”. My wife, who does not like beets, loved the dish too, as the toffee/beet combination is well thought out, renders the dish more voluminous, and imparts deep and nicely contrasting flavors. But if you get a chance to taste this dish, please ask for a good port to go with it. Initially the very likeable sommeliere poured a new style Rioja, and the wine was simply overwhelmed by the dish. If not a port, an oloroso sherry, or a French banyuls, should also pair well with this dish.
Our 5th course of the meal, “CRUSHED POTATOES, BROKEN EGGS AND VEGETABLE COAL DRESSED WITH A GARLIC PROTEIN” was a clever take on scrambled eggs and truffles. I was curious about vegetable coal, and, so, two black sticks of “carbon vegetal” imported from Japan were presented to us before they were cut into rather thick slices. These pieces then showed up in the dish of silky scrambled eggs and creamy potatoes which were dressed lightly with slightly browned garlic and brown butter. I always like brown butter with risotto and gnocchi when a little is poured on fresh Alba truffles, as done at the French Laundry in Yountville in the United States. Obviously this dish was neither as luxurious nor as opulent as the above mentioned truffle dishes, but it was a silky and zesty dish which coated your mouths. In Spain (and Italy) one can almost always count on eating very good egg dishes, and this dish was no exception. I should add that the slightly charred and earthy/smoky taste of carbon vegetal is of course not a match for the deep mineral taste of truffles, but an interesting taste which interacts well with eggs and potatoes.
I had one exceptional dessert in both Mugaritz and Bras. Bras’ now classical “Biscuit tiede a la chicoree. Crème glacee au potimarron et a la vanilla” is one of the best examples of chocolate desserts, and the combination of deep, silky chocolate with chicory works well. The texture of the “biscuit” is a work of art and is certainly better than the “biscuit” for two, prepared at Gagnaire. On the other hand, the other dessert at Bras, a “La tarte au figue et a la crème d’amandes,olives, crème glacee aux fruits rouges epicees, touche de vinaigre reduit”, was less successful as the figs were of average quality and the overdose of red wine vinegar created an overly acidic dish without sufficiently balancing the sweetness. I should also mention that, albeit the cheese platter at Bras includes a very good aged Laguiole, overall, it is not on par with three star standards in French restaurants.
I am not a fan of French toast, but Aduriz’ version of “French toast soaked in egg yolk, sautéed and caramelized, accompanied by a reduced milk ice cream” was a masterpiece. Each bite was rich and light and opulent at the same time, and this dessert somehow encapsulates Aduriz’ minimalist philosophy of using a few ingredients and creating simple looking dishes which are actually very complicated and sophisticated at the same time. An optimum touch of an orange confit added just the required bitter/citrusy component and elevated the dish to masterpiece status. This dish was followed by a “pistachio cake” which was essentially pistachio crumbles combined with rambutan pulp, crystallized flowers and an ice cream of orange blossoms. This was also a near masterpiece as the quality of pistachios were superb, and this is high praise from somebody raised by eating the Gaziantep Pistachios from Turkey that some people consider to be the best in the world. Aduriz presented pistachios more like “crumbles” with minimum sugar and let the quality speak for itself.
The style of service is very different in the two restaurants. Bras is rather a formal place, and the service is a little detached. The kitchen is unwilling to make substitutes in the degustation menu, and the sommelier does not make a special effort to understand one’s preferences. Despite my stated preference that I enjoy fully aromatic and feminine Burgundies, and my comments about the general state of ‘95 Burgundies being a bit austere at this time, the sommelier recommended a ‘95 Comte Lafon Volnay Santenots which turned out to be well made but rather unyielding. I saw the same sommelier late in the meal (the Argentinian gentleman), and after my characterization of the wine, he had the good sense of offering us two very good glasses of Banyuls, which beautifully complemented our dessert. I also found Sébastien Bras’ wife charming and genuinely interested in our contentment.
The service at Mugaritz is not as perfect as in a French three star restaurant, but they more than make up for it by goodwill, charm and a genuine willingness to please. The welcome by the friendly maitre d’hotel was very warm and reassuring that one is entering a “happy” house. I nearly fell in love with the good looking young sommeliere from Madrid, who, upon my request, took onto herself the task of matching each dish with a different glass of wine. We had a good Albarinho with the first three courses, refilled when necessary, a very good Verdejo (Belondrade Y Lurton) with the Cod cheek and tripe, 30 years old Olorosa sherry with the foie gras, a fine young Rioja (Evento 2001) with the rouget, and Ramos Pinto Vintage 97 Port with the lamb feet. The price charged for the selections was extremely reasonable. Overall it is much easier to communicate one’s preferences to the kitchen in Mugaritz than in Bras, and this is the case despite the language barrier.
Of course the first impression on entering Bras is different than Mugaritz. Mugaritz is a farmhouse, and it is especially beautiful sitting in the garden after the meal and sipping coffee, petit fours, and the digestives offered by the house. The dining room is modern and elegant, and the wooden panel/dividers create a sense of coziness without detracting from the overall harmony and sense of well being. The cuisine and decoration at Mugaritz is in perfect harmony.
The entry to Bras, on the other hand, is spectacular. One feels like one is in a surreal world, as if one has gone to the moon and run into a spaceship from another futuristic age. The welcome is friendly without exaggeration, in the best of French tradition, and the rooms are beautiful with large terraces overlooking Averyon pastures. They also have very comfortable beds. We borrowed some Piaf and Callas CDs prior to our dinner. Watching the hares chasing each other and relaxing in the bath tub, while listening Piaf sing to “Milord”, certainly prepared me for my birthday celebration. The surreal atmosphere also carried to the terrace on this beautiful day, where, we sat at 7:15 PM to watch the sunset, sip Billecart Salmon
Rosé, and taste some outstanding cepes tarts among other very good amuses.
Are these restaurants recommended? Mugaritz, should be a must on any gourmet’s culinary journey. Bras, on the other hand, is still recommended, despite some qualms. But try to stay there if you go.
Gastroville rankings: Bras 17/20 (VM)
Mugaritz 18.5/20 (VM)
Posted on December 1, 2005 08:17 PM
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