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L'Arpège restaurant ParisL'Arpège dining room
 

L'Arpège Paris restaurant logo

Recommended reviews and articles about this restaurant:  A Life Worth Eating  /  Chef Moz  /  Cigar Aficionado  /  The European Gourmet  /  Financial Times (UK) /  Fodor's  /  FoodTourist.com  /  Frommer's Guide  /  Gastroville  /  GAYOT  /   Andy Hayler  /  Mmmm!!! (French) /  Simon & Baker  /  tastingmenu.com  /  ThinkParis.com  /  Patricia Wells

MICHELIN

GAULT MILLAU

PUDLO GUIDE GAYOT GASTROVILLE

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Address:
 

  L'Arpège
84, rue de Varenne / 75007
 

Phone:

  +33 (0) 1 47 05 09 06

Fax:

  +33 (0) 1 44 18 98 39

Email:

  arpege@alain-passard.com
 

Chef Sommelier:

  Stéphane Thivat
     

Chef Propriétaire:

  Alain Passard
 

Official Site:

  Yes Click here

Pleine Terre, Pleine Mer
The new menu of Alain Passard
An Impressionist Chef

For thirty years, like an impressionist painter, Alain Passard adds the little touches, searching for and using the best products.  He respects produce, interpreting flavors with absolute authenticity, preserving color, aroma and keeping the purity of product.

Passard has to date been refining the essence of his menu by looking at the mirror between the earth and sea.  The original character of produce is like a musical cord.  Within this range, Alain plays with aroma, herbs, spices, those items which liberate the expression of the earth and sea.

He now seeks to begin exploring a new and unrecognized range of vegetables, a painstaking process that provokes within him an enthusiasm to create above expectations.  Passard follows his inspiration, a means for deepening his art in the discovery of a palette of extraordinary flavors within a vegetable that can be supremely satisfying.  For the last year, he has been seeking to make the vegetable a novel product, by creating and bringing out the finest quality in the produce, by keeping the cooking process simple.  In this inexhaustible register he invents a combination of vegetables with herbs, spices, flowers, dairy and shellfish…

Passard desires to contribute the development of a cuisine which has not yet been explored.  Working the vegetable creates encouragement to replant the earth and work with a new language, a new vocabulary.

Amazingly, it is the art of fire which allows Passard to work with vegetables, where work with fire is crucial for their cooking.  Passard has rediscovered the pleasure of the alchemist.  “Knowing how to make use of a sauté pan on the flame,  to not rush the process.  It is the manner in which to hold the pan on a journey that will not damage the vegetal tissue, working the flame to avoid evaporation of essences, playing with fire in order to not subdue the color, a dance to keep the luminosity and transparency”.  Attempting to preserve the essences of cooked white onions with salty butter is a passionate research for Alain Passard.

The cooking of vegetables has not traditionally been seen as very exciting, and for some has been inconceivable.  However it is important for this cuisine to find its own place in the same fashion as cooking methods for seafood and meats.

Perceived as containing insufficient nutrients and lacking depth of taste, vegetables have been restricted to side dishes and accompaniments.  Pursuing this research is for Passard the joy of escaping clichés and the freedom of inventing a new universe.

The raw product has an origin and identity, a source which should be revealed.  In any type of craftsmanship, whether creative or industrial, the raw materials are the most important tools with which to practice your craft.  You cannot work blind with a product that remains silent.  “A Chef can only create cuisine when he has knowledge of the raw ingredients”.

“I believe I have come far in the areas of poultry and meat based cuisine.  Today I aspire to another exploration based in vegetables.

I voluntarily erase, without regret, twelve signature dishes of the house with real reassessment.  I sense a fabulous adventure in exploring  the depths of my passion.”

Pleine terre, plein mer, a new menu, a new journey.”

Offering nourishing and appetizing dishes with flamboyant colors, entrancing aromas and unexpected flavors.

Like painters depicting the joy of living, who abandoned their studios and placed their easels on a riverbank or the middle of a country field, who knows if Alain Passard, Chef of his time, will forge the new nutritional style of tomorrow…

_______________

Article

 

Author

 

Source

 

Date

Forget greed: The recipe for success is passion

 

Sharon Reier

 

International Herald Tribune

 

6 Aug 2005

 

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