Among
the great restaurants on this planet, there is one which inspires among
its patrons an enthusiasm akin to religious fervour. The pilgrims love
their shrine and its saint. This is why, in magazine polls, they keep
voting for The French Laundry and for Thomas Keller as the Best
Restaurant and the Best Chef in the world.
And, since we are in a spiritual frame
of mind, allow me to make my confession: I share their devotion – not
for the polls, but for this glorious dining room and the brilliantly
inventive Thomas Keller. He is responsible for two of that small number
of dishes which I regard as truly life-enhancing. To consume his
truffled egg – an egg shell, re-filled with white truffle custard,
topped with black truffle coulis – is a revelatory experience. Strange
would be the man or woman who did not smile at such caressing richness.
And his version of coffee and doughnuts will turn the smile into a
gurgle of pleasure that food can be not only so delicious but also such
fun.
Both these wonders featured on my
recent visit. (The egg was delivered in a silver egg-cup, designed by
the Chef and made specially for him by Christofle.) I was, of course, in
Yountville. For this is where the pilgrim road ends – at number 6,640
Washington Street in this pristine little town in the beautiful Napa
Valley. The setting is idyllic, for folks hereabouts are proud of their
flower-laden streets, and beyond the houses and their gardens are
vineyards and gentle hills. The entrance to The French Laundry is so
discreet that it is easy to miss, which is as it should be – for a place
this famous does not require a brash sign. You only need to listen
carefully in the calm of the early evening, and you will hear the quiet
hum of the worshippers at prayer – forgive me, I mean the diners
enjoying their food.
Stepping
through the door, you have the sense – familiar to those of you who
frequent the triple-Michelin-starred gastronomic temples of Europe – of
something important going on. This is a moment I relish. And here my
pleasure was doubled when the serenely beautiful Laura Cunningham
murmured, “You are at your usual table”. Laura controls the front of
house and somehow manages to look younger and even more attractive every
time I see her. I think she must have a picture in the attic… She
certainly knows how to run this restaurant, for it proceeds with all the
elegance and effortless precision of a 1920s Bugatti.
Waiters in white shirts and high,
black waistcoats moved carefully this way and that in the dark,
discreetly-lit room, and brought to me salted and unsalted butter. A
single candle flickered and a spotlight shone down onto the white
tablecloth before me, as I surveyed my fellow guests. Well-dressed and
affluent, there was no doubt they were pleased to be here. I looked at
the 3 menus: 5 courses (with choices) for $135, 9 courses (no choice)
for $150 or 9 vegetarian courses (no choice) for $125 (plus an 18%
service charge). The course numbers, I should stress, are approximate,
for Mr Keller is inclined to send to your table extra dishes when you
least expect them – as if the enthusiasm and creativity in the kitchen
just cannot be contained.
Apart
from the truffled egg and the coffee and doughnuts (which were on none
of the menus, but which appeared, nevertheless), I hopped between the
first two menus and had a marvellous time. As you would expect,
presentation on the plate is of a high order. Whipped Yukon Gold
potatoes with a medley of new potatoes and French Autumn truffles
comprised the finest mashed potatoes to enter my mouth since the old
days of Joël Robuchon in the avenue Poincaré in Paris – and that is
about the highest praise I can offer. Sautéed duck foie gras with
braised salsify and huckleberry sauce was rich but superbly balanced
($25 supplement). Striped bass was delicate, wonderfully textured and
well partnered with mushrooms, turnips and a red wine sauce. Next, some
glorious meat: lamb with parsley, pole beans and thyme-infused olive
oil. And, to finish, a simple but brilliantly executed dish of lemon
buttermilk ice cream with blackcurrant coulis.
Paul Roberts, the Wine Director,
oversees a wine list which offers some of the loveliest wines ever made.
Many are French – clarets like 1959 Palmer ($2,055) and 1982 Latour
($1,200), burgundies like 1985 Romanée-Conti ($4,760) and Rhône like
Guigal’s 1983 Côte Rôtie, La Landonne ($1440). But many are Californian,
like my two bottles. Mr Roberts is an intelligent young man, and I had
no qualms at all in leaving the choice to him. The 2002 Mark Aubert
chardonnay (Ritchie Vineyard, Sonoma - $124) was quite superb – big,
buttery and perfectly structured, a joy to drink. My Napa Valley red was
young, muscular and tannic and needed its decanting. The density of its
black fruit was remarkable (Kobalt, 2001 - $160). Good glasses (a
mixture of Riedel and Spiegelau) are used.
As if little Yountville were not lucky
enough, having this glorious eatery in its midst, in 1998 Thomas Keller
– with his brother Joseph – opened down the road, at number 6,534
Washington Street, their own version of a Parisian bistro.
Bouchon
is a place of potted palms and red gladioli – the scene of many an
animated conversation at its zinc bar. I opted for a marble-topped table
on the terrace outside, where it was much quieter. Under a star-speckled
sky I unwrapped my white napkin from its brown paper wrapper – which
turned out to be the menu. And a fine menu it is, too, with exactly the
sort of simple, well-cooked food you want at a bistro, served with
friendliness and efficiency. I opted for a salad of summer vegetables
with herbs – large, straightforward and colourful. Then chilled
asparagus with chopped egg and a lemon-caper vinaigrette – exactly as
described. On to steak frites – a large portion of tasty beef with
excellent chips. And finally, a decent crème caramel. A thoroughly
acceptable meal. ($52 for these four courses.)
Being at a French bistro, I decided on
burgundy for drinking. Sommelier Sean Meyer, a young and most
enthusiastic fellow from Minneapolis, directed me towards a light,
elegant Montagny (Pillot, 1er Cru, Les Gouresses, 2002 - $70) and a
medium-bodied red, with a hint of the farmyard hovering over its red
fruit (Cornu, Ladoix, 1er Cru, Le Bois Roussot, 2002 - $72).
If you will allow me some more
religious metaphors, The French Laundry is a sacred shrine, to which
every serious gourmet should make at least one pilgrimage in his
lifetime, so that he can (metaphorically, at least) light a votive
candle to St Thomas Keller. And Bouchon is the nearby parish church,
well worth a visit. I can guarantee you will enjoy them both.
THE FRENCH LAUNDRY
6640 Washington Street (at Creek), Yountville, California 94599, U.S.A.
Telephone +1 707 944 2380
Fax +1 707 944 1974
Dinner daily; lunch Friday to Sunday
Book well in advance (2 months)
BOUCHON
6534 Washington Street (at Humbolt), Yountville, California 94599,
U.S.A.
Telephone +1 707 944 8037
Lunch and dinner daily
© 2004 Francis Bown. Used by
permission. All rights reserved. For reviews of hotels and
restaurants across the world, visit
www.BownsBest.com
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