Relais Louis XIII – Paris (Rating: 7/20)
The Gastroville Review: January 24, 2007
Relais Louis XIII - Sloppy cooking and average ingredients in historic setting
Relais Louis XIII in Paris is a restaurant that I have wanted to try for quite some time. The Chef Mr. Martinez has an impressive CV and is MOF. His restaurant, holding 2 Michelin stars, is about as much under the radar as one can be in the foodie communities. You literally never hear anyone talk about him or read anything about him. This silence has made me curious. Walking past the restaurant over the last six months I have at times found the menu interesting although quite traditional. I went before Christmas and I regret I did.
The first complimentary watery and tasteless soup with the texture of Tetra Pack packaged soup gave a good indication of what was about to come and the logic in the lack of positive recommendations in foodie communities. The scallops with endive salad and truffles that followed would perhaps have been deemed acceptable if served in an inexpensive bistro. The salad was carelessly cut and presented, the truffles lacked taste and the in half cut scallops were overcooked and rubbery. I have always wondered why some Chefs persist to cut scallops in half and then cook them as if they were not in half. The gain in visual effect of there being twice as many “noix de Saint-Jacques” on the plate, is always outweighed by the resulted rubbery texture of the scallops.
The disappointments were unfortunately not ended with this start. The 70 euros a portion Pièce de Boeuf façon Rossini, which upon my questions, the maitre d’hotel, after having consulted the kitchen, claimed to be an exceptional piece of beef that had been aged for 4 weeks. I actually pointed out that I am very difficult with beef and unless it was both well-aged and marbled it would not interest me. It turned out to be a piece from the filet and a very boring such piece with absolutely no intra muscular fat or marbling and it had clearly not been aged for anything near 4 weeks. It was a tasteless and boring piece of protein that also leaked with juices as if the silence of the animal in question had been heard only days before. The tiny foie gras piece on top of it was soggy and slightly burnt. The tiny and muted truffle pieces with it were not great. The sauce was a typical sauce served in another time and even then it would not have been good. The potato puree was broken and leaked of fat and grease and tasted greasy as is does when it is not at least a bit emulsified. It was a mean and poor dish. Of course I felt compelled to complain. And those who do this in this historical setting should be prepared to have the Chef running out in the dining room with his ingredients and in a nonchalant style trying to lecture you. The filet of beef on the plate Mr. Martinez was carrying looked as boring as supermarket beef; fresh and with no marbling. A long argument with Mr. Martinez followed during which Mr. Martinez first claimed that the beef had been hung for 2 weeks but then jumped ship and said 4 weeks when confronted with the fact that his maitre d’hotel had advised me of a hanging time of 4 weeks. He felt compelled to one more time jump ship when I told him that the beef he showed me on the plate impossibly could have been hung 4 weeks unless in the freezer, so he finally settled with that he had to ask the butcher. Why would you let a Chef with such boring ingredients redo a dish so you have to endure the pain to eat it one more time? I didn’t anyway much to Mr. Martinez’ discontent.
A picture of the beef can be seen below.
It was easy to pass upon the cheese after a quick glance at the cheese cart.
I was offered a chocolate cake. It was an unsuccessful attempt to copy Pacaud’s fantastic chocolate tarte.
Gastroville rating: 7/20. This meal was a monumental rip-off. The only positive things to remark are the wine list which is fantastic with many great wines at for Paris reasonable mark-ups and the friendly and professional service rendered by the staff.
Gastroville ranking: 7/20 (Vedat Mikael)
